It started with a crock, as so many things do.
In this case, a beautiful wood-fired stoneware sauerkraut crock made by local potter Maya Zelkin. As I stood in Maya's chilly studio last fall (she lives off the grid), her son, who is very young, offered me a bite of raw sauerkraut and a glass of juice. I was charmed, and I loved the sauerkraut, which was crunchy, light, fresh. Then Maya showed me the Crock.
To justify the purchase of this object, I promised myself to make sauerkraut according to Maya's directions: Tamp, Tamp, Tamp the cabbage, and keep on Tamping. Put on a little salt. And in fact, that is basically the recipe for sauerkraut.